Ghoom Monastery

The Ghoom Monastery, officially known as Yiga Choeling Monastery, stands as one of the oldest and most revered Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in Darjeeling, India. Nestled amidst the scenic beauty of the Himalayan foothills, approximately 7-8 kilometers from the main Darjeeling town center, it is a beacon of peace, spirituality, and cultural heritage, drawing both devout Buddhists and curious travelers alike. Its historical significance, unique architectural style, and profound spiritual ambiance make it an indispensable part of any visit to Darjeeling.

A Journey Through Time: The Genesis and Evolution of Ghoom Monastery

The story of the Ghoom Monastery begins in 1850, when it was founded by Lama Sherab Gyatso, a renowned Mongolian astrologer and monk. This makes it one of the earliest Tibetan Buddhist institutions to be established in the Darjeeling region, long before the major influx of Tibetan refugees in the mid-20th century. Lama Sherab Gyatso served as the head of the monastery until 1905, laying the groundwork for its enduring legacy.

The monastery belongs to the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, often referred to as the “Yellow Hat” sect. This is the newest and arguably most influential school of Tibetan Buddhism, led by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. The Gelugpa lineage places a strong emphasis on rigorous scholarship, adherence to monastic discipline, and a deep understanding of Buddhist philosophy, particularly the teachings of Je Tsongkhapa, its founder.

A significant development in the monastery’s history occurred during the tenure of its second head, Kyabje Domo Geshe Rinpoche Ngawang Kalsang, who led the monastery from 1909 until 1952. It was under his patronage that the monastery’s most iconic feature, the colossal statue of the Maitreya Buddha, was commissioned and unveiled in 1918. This undertaking was a testament to the growing stature and spiritual influence of the Ghoom Monastery.

Following the Chinese occupation of Tibet in 1959, many high-ranking abbots and monks fled Tibet and sought refuge in India. Ghoom Monastery, among others in Darjeeling, became a sanctuary for these displaced spiritual leaders, further enriching its intellectual and spiritual repository. Dhardo Rimpoche, a prominent Gelugpa lama, became the head of the Yiga Choeling Monastery in 1961, continuing its tradition of spiritual leadership and fostering its development.

Despite its rich history and spiritual importance, the monastery has faced challenges, particularly in recent decades, regarding funding and the number of resident monks. It largely relies on donations and contributions from local devotees and visitors to sustain its operations and preserve its precious heritage.

Architectural Splendor: A Homage to Tibetan Tradition

The Ghoom Monastery’s architecture is a classic example of traditional Tibetan monastic design, blending seamlessly with the natural beauty of its Himalayan surroundings. The building is characterized by its:

• Multi-tiered, Sloping Roofs: These are a hallmark of Tibetan architecture, often adorned with intricate carvings and sometimes golden finials, adding to the monastery’s grandeur.
• Vibrant Colors: The exterior and interior are typically painted with striking colors, especially reds, golds, and blues, which are deeply symbolic in Tibetan Buddhism.
• Intricate Woodwork: Detailed carvings can be found on windows, doors, and eaves, showcasing the exquisite craftsmanship of the artisans.
• Prayer Flags: Countless prayer flags, in their five symbolic colors (blue, white, red, green, yellow), flutter in the mountain breeze around the monastery. Each color represents an element and carries prayers and good wishes to the heavens with every flap.

Upon entering the main prayer hall, visitors are immediately struck by a sense of serenity and awe. The interior is a vibrant tapestry of Buddhist art and iconography:

• Murals and Thangkas: The walls are adorned with elaborate murals and thangkas (scroll paintings on cotton or silk) depicting scenes from Buddhist scriptures, the life of the Buddha, the wheel of life (Bhavachakra), and various deities and bodhisattvas. These are not merely decorative but serve as visual aids for meditation and teaching, narrating stories and conveying profound philosophical concepts.
• Statues of Deities: Besides the central Maitreya Buddha, there are often statues of other important Buddhist deities, historical figures, and revered lamas, such as Chenrezig (Avalokitesvara), the Buddha of compassion, and Je Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelugpa sect.
• Ritual Objects: The hall is equipped with traditional ritualistic objects, including large drums, gongs, bells, and butter lamps. The two huge oil lamps in front of the Maitreya Buddha statue are said to burn continuously throughout the year, symbolizing the perpetual light of wisdom.

The Majestic Maitreya Buddha: A Symbol of Hope

The undisputed centerpiece and most iconic feature of the Ghoom Monastery is its magnificent 15-foot (4.6-meter) high statue of the Maitreya Buddha. Maitreya is considered the “Future Buddha,” the next Buddha who is prophesied to appear on Earth to achieve complete enlightenment and teach the pure Dharma.

This colossal clay statue, reportedly made from clay brought from Tibet, is painted gold and adorned with precious stones, radiating an aura of peace and benevolent power. Its presence symbolizes hope and the promise of a future enlightened era, making it a powerful focal point for devotion and meditation. Devotees often circumambulate the statue, offering prayers and seeking blessings.

A Repository of Wisdom: The Monastery’s Library

Beyond its architectural and artistic beauty, Ghoom Monastery is a treasure trove of Buddhist knowledge. It houses a significant collection of rare and ancient Buddhist manuscripts and texts, some of which are difficult to find elsewhere. Among these is the Kangyur, the Tibetan Buddhist canon, which runs into 108 volumes. This vast collection includes:

• Sutras and Tantras: The recorded teachings of the Buddha and tantric texts.
• Commentaries: Explanations and analyses of the core Buddhist scriptures by renowned scholars.
• Philosophical Works: Texts on Buddhist logic, epistemology, and metaphysics.
• Tibetan Translations of Sanskrit Works: The monastery also boasts Tibetan translations of famous Indian Sanskrit literary and philosophical works, such as Meghaduta by Kalidasa, Nagamandala by Sriharsa, and Nyaya Krit by Dharmakirti. This highlights the historical intellectual exchange between India and Tibet.

The preservation of these invaluable manuscripts is crucial for maintaining the continuity of Buddhist teachings and for scholarly research into the rich intellectual heritage of Tibetan Buddhism.

Spiritual Practices and Monastic Life

Ghoom Monastery is an active spiritual center where monks live, study, and practice the Gelugpa tradition. Visitors can often observe various aspects of monastic life:

• Daily Prayers and Chanting: The monastery comes alive with the rhythmic chanting of mantras by the monks, accompanied by the resonant sounds of traditional musical instruments like long horns (dungchen), cymbals, and drums. These prayer sessions, typically held in the mornings and evenings, create a deeply meditative and immersive experience.
• Meditation: Monks engage in rigorous meditation practices aimed at developing concentration, wisdom, and compassion.
• Study and Debate: A core aspect of Gelugpa training is the intensive study of Buddhist philosophy and engaging in formal debate, which is a traditional method for deepening understanding and clarifying concepts.
• Rituals and Ceremonies: The monastery observes various Buddhist rituals and ceremonies throughout the year, particularly during important festivals like Saga Dawa (Buddha Purnima) and Losar (Tibetan New Year). These events are marked by special prayers, offerings, and sometimes sacred masked dances (Cham).

Community Role and Tourism

Ghoom Monastery plays a vital role in the local community, serving as a spiritual anchor for Buddhist devotees in Darjeeling and the surrounding areas. It also significantly contributes to Darjeeling’s appeal as a tourist destination.

• Accessibility: Its location near the Ghoom railway station, a famous stop for the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (Toy Train), makes it easily accessible. Many visitors combine a trip to the monastery with a ride on the Toy Train or a visit to the nearby Batasia Loop and Tiger Hill.
• Tranquil Atmosphere: The monastery offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of Darjeeling town. Its elevated position provides peaceful views of the surrounding hills and, on clear days, glimpses of the majestic Kanchenjunga mountain range.
• Cultural Immersion: For many tourists, a visit to Ghoom Monastery is an opportunity to immerse themselves in Tibetan Buddhist culture, learn about its traditions, and experience a sense of tranquility.

Tips for Visitors:

• Respectful Attire: Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees.
• Remove Shoes: Always remove your shoes before entering the main prayer hall.
• Photography: Photography is often permitted in the complex, but usually restricted inside the main prayer hall or may require a small fee. Always check for signs or ask for permission.
• Maintain Silence: Speak softly and maintain a respectful demeanor, especially during prayer times.
• Donations: The monastery relies on donations for its upkeep. A small contribution is a thoughtful gesture to support its preservation and the monastic community.

Conclusion

The Ghoom Monastery, or Yiga Choeling Monastery, is much more than a historical landmark; it is a living, breathing testament to the enduring power of Tibetan Buddhism in the Himalayas. Its majestic Maitreya Buddha statue, ancient manuscripts, vibrant art, and the daily rituals of its monastic community offer a profound spiritual and cultural experience. A visit to Ghoom is an encounter with deep faith, timeless wisdom, and a serene beauty that resonates long after one has left its sacred precincts, truly encapsulating the spiritual heart of Darjeeling.